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Icaro software laser
At ITMA 2019, most laser finishing system concepts introduced focused on design capability, productivity and a systems approach to sustainability, particularly in denim processing. Lasers also have the capacity to produce an extensive range of finishing effects that would otherwise require application of multiple chemical and mechanical finishing processes using several different pieces of equipment, making these systems versatile and eco-friendly.
Though these lasers for finishing also commonly have cutting capability, they excel in rapid and flexible distressing and embellishing offering fast and precise engraving and marking effects. Particularly suited to laser treatment of textiles are carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers. CO2 lasers use a mixture of gases such as CO2, nitrogen, hydrogen and helium in a mirrored tube. When excited by an electrical current, the gas produces thermal energy which is reflected by the mirrors and intensified producing a beam of laser light from one end of the tube. The laser beam must be directed to the textile surface for laser treatment to occur. To move the laser beam around the material at the speed required to achieve finishing effects, a galvo mechanism is typically used. Galvo systems use motorized, high speed mirrors to direct the laser beam onto the material surface. Because only the motorized mirror is moving during processing, the laser can be directed over the material being treated at very high speeds with great precision. Because the laser head does not physically move, galvo lasers are very fast and efficient systems for distressing and finishing textiles. Such systems are able to cut and enhance single layer fabrics, as well as age and distress products.
At ITMA, systems were shown both for enhancing finished products and for treating fabrics prior to assembly. Finished product treatments, especially jeans, were the predominant focus of demonstrations. Textile laser systems are increasingly important to the denim industry where they can be integral in sustainable production systems for fabrics and products. Laser application in denim finishing is particularly attractive from a production system perspective because lasers can recreate the combined effect of several other chemical and mechanical processes in one single operation.
Aside from variations in laser power, which is expressed in watts, internal capabilities of the laser mechanism itself are quite similar across most textile laser systems. Key differentiators from one textile laser system to the next include the software interface and capabilities, the effectiveness of the system over time, and the required production capacity. At the most recent ITMA, laser finishing concepts introduced focused on design capability, productivity and a systems approach to sustainability particularly in denim processing. One exception to this is VAV Technology, which showcased an innovation related to the laser tube itself. Companies based in Italy, Spain, and Turkey were well represented at ITMA 2019 in the field of laser marking and engraving. A few Chinese firms also were showcasing laser capabilities although the main focus of their exhibits was laser cutting rather than finishing.
Sei S.p.A., also known as Sei Laser, showcased its Matrix Textile laser system and its potential as a disruptive technology in denim processing. The modular Matrix Textile system can be used for high productivity roll-to-roll and roll-to-garment part processing, allowing manufacturers to mark for assembly, cut garment parts and finish with laser effects in one step. The flexibility provides an opportunity to optimize production flow in manufacturing. The Matrix Textile system targets faster turnaround and production, reducing it to a few days in a well-planned production and finishing system. During ITMA 2019 presentations, Sei Laser highlighted the eco-friendly nature of the laser processing because it uses no water and no chemicals, as well as its ability to optimize fabric utilization and thereby reduce fabric consumption. Of particular interest in terms of material utilization and efficiency, Sei showed how the brand marking, care label, size information, and style number can be directly applied to the inside of the waistband. In addition, the cut parts were labeled for assembly with some instruction. Unlike cutting garment parts with blades that inherently includes some limitations in shape, the Matrix Textile laser has no limitations on cut shapes. The approach advanced by Sei Laser offers an appealing solution for a micro-factory environment where flexibility and versatility are key to an effective production system. The Icaro Textile software developed for the laser can process any vector or raster image specifically for adding the laser surface effects including importing a wide range of image file types. Sei Laser also offers the Flexi Denim system for garment processing.
Iberlaser incorporates a variety of productivity features across its laser models reflecting several approaches. One system features two laser heads each with its own belt feed allowing constant operation of the laser and continuous loading of products to be processed. Its most advanced laser system uses only one laser tube that can move, allowing laser treatment on a flat table with two automatic loading belts as well as a mannequin in one unit. Sample products, including jeans and T-shirts, featured all-over repeating textile designs that pushed beyond the most often seen distressing .
The textile laser configurations from Arges Laser System, Turkey, are flat table systems with for enhanced processing speeds. The system offers four moveable tables for loading, unloading, and laser treating continuously with two operators working side-by-side. A projection screen shows the engraving location on each product as it is loaded for treatment. Notable features include its 3D+ Optical System developed for better design transitions, thinner lines and greyscale; and the Arcon software that drives the laser, which is capable of processing a wide range of file types. Arges Laser technology also is eco-friendly and efficient in terms of power utilization and therefore a good fit with sustainable finishing systems. The company also offers an ozone washing system as a complement to the laser in a more sustainable processing system.
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